My mom taught me how to sew using commercial patterns. I totally see how people are intimidated by them! SO many pieces of paper and little marks and doo-hickeys all over the easily-ripped tissue paper pieces… but you know what? I love them. They take so much guess work out of the sewing process, and they can be SO cheap! NEVER buy a commercial pattern for the suggested retail price- something is always on sale, somewhere!
With most patterns, you can walk into a fabric store and walk out with everything you need to complete the project. The pattern you pick will tell you exactly what you need, and how much of what is needed. The thing you need to know is your measurements!

Children’s measurements are different than adults, especially adult women, obviously! For kids, measure the height, chest, waist, hips, and distance between the largest bone on the neck and the waist. Sometimes waist is hard to find on little stick bodies, so take your tape measure, loop it around their middle, and slide it around until you find the smallest part. It is a good idea to measure your kids every few months during their growing years and keep that information with you, on your phone, on a piece of paper in your wallet, whatever. That way, when you are in a fabric store and you don’t have your kids and a tape measure, you know what size you are looking for in patterns. For my average-sized girls, the patterns run pretty true to their size; if they are 4, they are size 4. It makes it easy for me to pick what size to use! :)

Women are different, because most of us have more to the chest (some, much less than others!) and that needs to be taken into account. For women, the height, high bust (under the armpits and above the breast), bust (widest area around the breast), waist- the natural waist, not the low-rise pant waist, back to natural waist, and hips- the widest part of the body below the waist. Wear your bra when measuring to get a more accurate measurement of what you are when you will actually be wearing the article of clothing. Another point to realize is that your department store size will be different than your pattern size. I’m a double-digit pattern size, and a single-digit store size. Remember that it starts with the kid sizes and goes up from there, and you want to be bigger than your 6-year-old. ;)
Now, go thumb through pattern books or browse online! I am going to use a Simplicity pattern for reference here because they are my favorite out of the commercial patterns in terms of ease of use, cost, and availability.

Every commercial pattern is numbered, and the front will also have the sizes contained in that particular pattern envelope. Make sure when you grab a pattern from the store it has the right size on it, not just the picture that matches.

The back of the pattern has the measurements that you need to reference. Use them to determine the size you need; if not every measurement matches, round to the nearest size or measurement up. The size with the most matching measurements should be the one you start with. These patterns are easy to adjust because they have a wide, 5/8” seam allowance. If you have an extra tall child, also check the bottom where it details garment measurements, and you will see the finished length. The pattern will tell you how to lengthen it if you need to, but this will reference how much you might need to lengthen.
Patterns often have several “views” or options on what you can sew. This pattern has two dress variations, a jacket, and a bag. If I only wanted to make dress B, I only need to worry about the sections with B included. The back of the pattern will also give you fabric suggestions so you know what type of fabric to look for while you are at the store. When you find a fabric you like, check on the bolt end to see how wide it is; you need different amounts based on the fabric width. The pattern also says what extra notions and trims you might need. Follow the size down the chart to see how much of what items you need; view B dress needs 1 1/8 yard of 45” wide fabric, plus 3/8 yard of lightweight fusible interfacing, plus the notions up at the top.

Inside your pattern, there should be an itemized pattern piece list showing how many pieces there are, and which ones go to what view you plan on making. Dress B needs pieces 1-6, so those are the only pieces I am going to cut out of the huge mess of tissue paper.

There are also some general directions which are super helpful when just starting out. The symbols are explained to you right there. For the notches, those are reference points for lining up pattern pieces correctly. Once upon a time I cut out each notch (or a big notch for the notch groups) but now I just make a little 1/4” snip into the fabric where the notches are. It is much faster, and since the seam allowance is huge, it doesn’t mess anything up.
The dots need to be transferred to the fabric using a disappearing pen or transfer paper. They are also references for lining up pattern pieces.
The center Front of Back of garment lines are GREAT if you are working with a fabric with an awesome pattern that can be centered on the garment. For instance, this floral damask from Raspberry Creek Fabrics:

The best thing to do would be to line up the center garment line with the center of the damask. This attention to detail is what can make your garment look really great in the end.

The pattern also helps you to figure out how to lay out your pattern pieces on your fabric. This takes into account the sizes too, so make sure you are looking at the right picture. When a pattern piece is grayed out like some in the above example, it means the piece needs to be flipped over to its wrong side. Pay attention to the arrows on the pattern pieces, they need to be parallel with the selvedge of the fabric (the edge with the writing or tiny little holes) so the garment drapes, or hangs, right on the body.

I rough-cut the patterns out of the tissue paper. They aren’t perfect! I should have ironed this one out (on low) but didn’t because of laziness. The pattern will give more instruction; for instance, this sleeve C needs two pieces cut. If I have it like the pattern layout suggests, those two will be cut at the same time; if I am using scraps, I need to make sure this piece is cut once right side up, and then flipped before cutting the second piece because it is not a symmetrical pattern piece. Sometimes, the pattern also says to use it to cut interfacing pieces if that is needed, and the same rules apply there about symmetry.
Let’s say I’m cutting a size 4 out of this; the 4 is not on the edge. Since this is tissue paper, I pin my pattern to my fabric and then slide my scissors under the pattern, lining them up with the size I am wanting to cut as I go along. I can see what my scissors are doing under the paper so I don’t worry about cutting blindly. It is slower going than slicing right through the pattern, but then I can use it again and again. If you are not comfortable with that but want to keep the pattern in tact, use tracing paper and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern size directly to your fabric, and cut along the line.

The pattern instructions have both text and images. This is where most people get confused! Read slowly, and reference the picture. The pieces are printed differently so you can tell what is the right side, wrong side, interfacing, and lining. There is always a key to know what is what too. Follow every trim, snip, clip, and iron step they have in there and you really will find it is to your benefit!
If you are still feeling anxious, consider using a PDF pattern. This step is also where so many PDF patterns like Peek-A-Boo Patterns (affiliate link) are convenient, because they have step-by-step photos of what to do instead of illustrated drawings (and the Pier 49 convertible pants are 50% off today only!). I like how the commercial patterns have so many options in one pack, but there are many cute PDF garment patterns out there nowadays!
Key things to remember with paper patterns:
START EASY. Familiarize yourself with the lingo, illustrations, and directions given with easy projects, like the bag on this pattern.
READ EVERYTHING. The basic directions are priceless! If you run into a question, your best bet is that the answer is in the general directions at the beginning.
DON’T FREAK OUT. It is easier than it looks.
And, if you made it this far… I am totally exhausted from these past 3 HUGE lessons. Whew! We’ll do something more fun next week: Fabric. :)
FLASH GIVEAWAY! It is a small one, but hey, I’m moving in 3 days so give me a break ;) I gathered a small pile of my favorite sewing tools, and someone will be the lucky recipient!

I’ve got pins, a seam ripper, 60” tape measure, and my favorite Micro-tip scissors up for grabs. Leave a comment! I’ll pick a winner tonight at midnight. (Speaking of winners, I picked a winner for the Flirt Earrings giveaway- was it you? Check your e-mail!)
If you have ANY QUESTIONS EVER about sewing with a pattern, let me know, shoot me an e-mail ( melcollette at gmail dot com) and I will do my best to help you out. I WANT you to succeed, so you aren’t bothering me, I promise!
Over and out.